Twos

Am I allowed to compliment myself?

Because I really LOVE this capture—everything about it—the sunlight, the lines of this Ueno Park (Tokyo) bridge, the two couples casting shadows in tandem. 

In as far as documenting The City could be deliberate, this image actually is: having noticed the lines and lighting in this area, I took several photographs.

If I were to illustrate a basic Japanese-language textbook, this would be an image for te ni te wo toru (and that's as sentimental as this Russian Barbarian will ever get on this blog!).

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A Portrait of a Little Man

Whenever I create portraits (this excludes models posing as someone else), I prefer the natural approach that both presents the subject in an aesthetically pleasing manner and accurately portrays his or her personality. This means photographing either without the subject's knowledge or capturing their non-posed interactions. 

It also helps if I am photographing a tiny East Asian baby. Is there anything cuter than they are?

Not much!

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Black on Green and the Un-Home

The thing about returning to this Rocky Mountain paradise from Asia or Europe is not the lengthy flights with multi-hour layovers (which could get quite pesky), but the fact that it—this paradise—is not.

Is not home, that is.

There is one caveat, of course: solitary hikes amidst northern Nature do feel like home. But this is the case just about anywhere for me. And so, this little town next to a mountain, this little town that I do like quite a bit, does not feel like home.

Unsurprisingly, I've lost that feeling almost completely long ago when I graduated college and left my parents' house, though even there, in the Canadian prairies, it wasn't quite right. 

It feels right in Moscow, my birthplace.

And in St. Petersburg.

But it's been a long time since I've lived in Russia, far too long, and things have changed. So much. And so, if I were to relocate to a place that I think would feel like home, it might not—likely, will not—feel like home for quite some time.

This is the plight of rootless cosmopolitans, like me, whose parents opted for immigration, even if for entirely legitimate reasons.

What does all of this have to do with Japan? It sounds contrived, but the old trope about discovering oneself in a foreign country is accurate. The Land of the Rocking Samurai (as I've always called it) shows me my limits, my comforts zones, tells me when it's too late, and when "too late" is a good thing. Japan emphasizes what—and whom—I miss, and what (who) doesn't even register on my radar. 

Beyond intense self-analysis, there are, of course, some of the most generous and wonderful people I've ever met (despite a time or two when the Japanese strike me as being too reserved by my too-open Slavic standards!), whose number seems to grow. And then there is Nature, the main reason for my travels, including certain wildlife specimens whom most would take for granted—ravens and crows.

Like this new friend of mine in Shinjuku Gyoen (again! of course!). 

Isn't he gorgeous?

Lines and Lights

Truth be told, tonight I felt somewhat under the weather. However, Friday was my last day in Japan, so I forced myself to leave the hotel and engage in a bit of nighttime city photography.

In the case of urban architecture, especially, my goal is to present things from an unusual perspective, with the greatest image depth, emphasizing the lines and colors of electric lighting. 

These samples are, of course, merely iPad photos, but I think they reflect the above quite well. For this purpose, I normally use a a Pentax fish-eye lens, which is a blessing and a curse in one package: it covers around 180 degrees, i.e., more than the eye could see, for widtpanoramas, but, at the same time, warps the perspective inward. The key is to find the balance between the two. 

And so I ran around, in between coffees to keep warm (it rained and snowed because Tokyo is sad to see me go! ;)) shooting the streets and the people inhabiting them, in Shinjuku. In the end, I think I lost all shame and photographed things without worrying about what people might think of me! 

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Ueno

Today, I planned to travel outside Tokyo only to realize this morning that--despite eating copious amounts of dark chocolate and ingesting too much caffeine--I'm kind of...well...exhausted. Russian superwoman don't like to acknowledge their weaknesses in public!

But the latter ended up working out to my advantage: I decided to undertake something tried and tested: Ueno, where I haven't been since 2009. Actually, that is where I stayed during my first visit to Japan.
 
So, you know: memories. 

The Ueno Park turned out to be a great idea for two reasons. First, I got to capture all kinds of images of crows and ravens in a variety of styles, from close-up portraits to painterly minimalism. (There seems to be less of a size difference between the two as compared to a North America, so sometimes it is hard to tell them apart!) Second: the Moon.

Actually, I forgot about the Moon completely (!), but I noticed that it was waxing and quite visible in suburban, "sky-scraperless" Saitama on Wednesday night. Naturally, I couldn't help myself, especially in light of K-3's higher resolution as compared to the K-7. I even "Googled" the sunset and moonset times for Tokyo! 

And, what can I say, it was glorious. Total darkness. Serenading crows. Ueno Park trees resembling Tim Burton's aesthetic. And a perfect waxing crescent tilted differently as compared to what I'm used to seeing in Montana. 

Totally worth freezing my fingers!

Thank you, Ueno. Thank you, Moon. 

P.S. In the meantime, all I have is mobile daytime images.

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Kamakura

The 800-year-old city of Kamakura is only an hour outside of Tokyo, which makes it an ideal location for the first-time tourists, and also explains why I've avoided it until now.

Had I known that I would encounter a multitude of large predatory birds like kites perpetually circling up above in search of food (other animals and your lunch alike), I would've been here long ago. For me, the latter's hypnotic air exercises would've been reason enough to visit. Then there are ravens, crows, white pigeons, the ocean, mountains, woods, blooming plum trees...

Oh, and the great Buddha along with temples and shrines, of course!

But the birds. THE BIRDS! 

I'm seriously considering returning on Thursday or Friday for the sole purpose of photographing them.

And I owe it all to the lady to whom I often refer as my "Japanese mother," who, in the span of only a few hours, managed to show me so much that I almost ran out of memory cards for my camera. And my iPad, the mobile photos from which you see below, is just about out of space.

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Rain

Today was meant to be the day of shooting a model. We gradually made our way to Shinjuku Gyoen, where I somehow seem to end up every time I come to Tokyo. I wanted to create a visual contrast between a sharp urban punk aesthetic and the natural surroundings.

As the weather changed from drizzling to unexpectedly bone-chilling rain, I first stopped taking mobile proofs, like the ones below, ultimately cutting our exercise short and running--two girls in high-platform shoes--inside somewhere, anywhere that served what seemed like life-saving coffee at that time. 

I flew in from -20 degrees in the Rockies, but I wasn't dressed to this!

Nonetheless, I think I've managed to create some worthwhile images to justify extreme modeling par excellence for this poor girl! And, I've even snuck in a few photographs of Japan's amazing ravens to which I'm always drawn--all to be worked on when I have access to a computer.

Also, the park looked as striking as always, only this was a subtler kind of beauty.

Hopefully, the weather improves in the next few days, because I'd like to engage in some photographic people-watching around Shinjuku before leaving next weekend. 

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Privet, Yaponiya

Don't judge my first travelogue out of Japan too harshly: I'm still getting over the delirium that is jet lag caused by a 16-hour time difference, not to mention the climate change.

Was I really skiing through the extra-grim and frostbitten mountains last weekend?

When I first moved to the Rocky Mountains, I naively assumed that being closer to the west coast would make trans-Pacific travel simpler (and trans-Atlantic trips harder). Instead, infrequent flights to the Middle of Nowhere's Ski Country and tedious layovers made everything more complex. On average, a one-way trip for me takes 24 hours. (If peak-oilers are correct, then the latter, considering the still-relatively easy access, is certainly no reason for whining.)

Catching a late-arriving flight to Haneda, where I've only been once domestically, had the unexpected benefit of a nearly empty plane (the typical "shaky-shaky" over Alaska and the Kurils notwithstanding). And now, as I write this, only a few hours later, separated by broken sleep, monorail, Yamanote JR, and Tokyo station which I always try to avoid due to its sheer magnitude, I'm already on a Shinkansen on my way to Fukuoka by the way of Osaka, listening to the default feel-good band of choice, Buck-Tick.

The Japan Rail pass has always made travel for us, curious gaijin, incredibly affordable and convenient. Now, thanks to the so-called Abenomics, the Yen inflation had made it significantly cheaper. I'm almost afraid to tell my Japanese friends just how cheap riding in business class (green car) has become, if the genuine dropped jaw, literally, of the clerk at the JR office is of any indication. 

Unlike my previous trips, when I often saw a city per day, I've decided to take it easy and, after visiting southern Japan for the first time since 2009, spend most of my time in and around Tokyo. In other words, I'm doing everything backwards as compared to a regular tourist. As a Japan newbie, I started with less expected Morioka and Kumamoto and now, years later, I'm working my way to popular locations like Nara and exploring more of Tokyo. One of these days I will get into anime.

Just kidding!

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A smaller list of towns is the only slow aspect of this trip, however. As I always say, and obvious criticisms of urban "black holes" notwithstanding, you can take the girl out of the City, but you can't take the City out of the girl. I naturally default to the fast pace of Japan's metropolitan areas, skillfully maneuvering with my roller bag, surprisingly easily readjusting to the British-style traffic and pedestrian rules, backward for North Americans. 

In fact, the only place where I feel outdone in this department is Moscow. An average Muscovite woman in stilettos could triumph in Olympic walking!

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So far, I've only bothered to speak Japanese when English wasn't understood. A few years ago, I felt shy but still eager to practice what little I knew, only to realize that the Japanese would rather turn the tables and practice their English on you (or they are gently trying to spare you the embarrassment!). 

So now I just feel shy, though I understand more than I let on. Of course, reading has always been easier for me, because the intonation feels so foreign. Worst of all, I have a Russian, not an English accent (as well as in what's left of my French and German.) Don't take this as an invitation to get me to speak, just so you could get some "LOLz" at my expense, because I'll figure out a way to get some "LOLz" back. Russians always have the last laugh, after all.

For now, however, it suffices to say: privet, Yaponiya!

P.S. All photos are mobile. Some were shot on a moving train.

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Have Cool, Will Travel?

I'm seriously considering traveling to Japan in late February.

By "seriously considering" I mean I've bought my flights, and hope that some of the slightly pesky issues—that have arisen—sort themselves out. Even though this is coming up quite soon, I don't even know where I'd go other than the mandatory stop in Tokyo.

I'm always having second (third, fourth...) thoughts whenever I go somewhere other than Russia, because travel is getting more difficult for various reasons, and I feel like I'm betraying my homeland by visiting elsewhere, as silly as this sounds.

Be that as it may, it would be great to see some of my friends and, equally important, photograph-photograph-photograph, especially if I get a new camera. 

"What's wrong with this woman," you must be thinking. Instead of beautiful scenery, you get vegetables, bugs, metal lettering, and rain! 

Fine.

Fine!!!

;)

Here are some conventional images:

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